Dedicated circuit installation cost
A dedicated 20 amp circuit is billed by the hour at $80 to $180, and an easy run from a panel below the room totals about $260 to $790 with the visit. The route from the panel, not the parts, sets the price.
National average
$110
per hour
Base pricing reviewed October 2026 · Labor: BLS OEWS May 2025 · Materials: BLS PPI August 2026
A dedicated circuit is priced almost entirely by the hour: an electrician bills $80 to $180, typically $110, and a straightforward 20 amp, 120 volt circuit takes two to three hours plus the visit. The materials, a breaker, a box, a receptacle and a coil of 12 gauge cable, are a small part of the bill.
What moves the hours is the route. A panel in an unfinished basement directly below the outlet is the easy case. A panel at one end of the house, finished walls all the way, and no spare breaker slot is the expensive one.
What it costs
| Line | Cost |
|---|---|
| Electrician, per hour in business hours | $80 to $180 |
| Typical hourly rate | $110 |
| Call-out or diagnostic fee per visit | $100 to $250 |
| Outlet added to an existing circuit, for comparison | $140 to $350 |
| Opening and patching a wall for access, per opening | $300 to $1,500 |
| Panel full and at capacity: service upgrade | $1,500 to $6,000 |
The comparison line is there for a reason. An outlet tapped off a nearby circuit is a short job priced as a unit. A dedicated circuit is a new run all the way from the panel, and it is quoted by the hours that run takes.
Which appliances need their own circuit
A dedicated circuit feeds one appliance or one location and nothing else. Some are required by the National Electrical Code, some by the appliance's installation instructions, which the code says must be followed, and some are simply good practice.
Required in most jurisdictions.
- Two 20 amp small-appliance circuits for the kitchen countertop outlets
- A 20 amp circuit for the laundry outlet
- A 20 amp circuit for the bathroom outlets
- A circuit for a furnace or other central heating equipment
- Under recent code editions, a 20 amp circuit for the garage outlets
Required by the manufacturer, which makes it required. Over-the-range microwaves, built-in microwaves, many dishwashers and garbage disposals, and most wall ovens and induction cooktops. The installation manual states the circuit, and an inspector reads it.
Good practice, and worth the money.
- A refrigerator or chest freezer, so a tripped outlet elsewhere does not spoil food
- A sump pump, for the same reason with higher stakes
- A window air conditioner over about 1,000 watts, or a large space heater
- A home office or gaming setup, a treadmill, or a workshop bench with a table saw
The test is simple. If an appliance draws a large share of a 15 or 20 amp circuit on its own, or if a nuisance trip would cost you something, give it its own circuit.
What the job actually is
The electrician runs one cable, called a home run, from a breaker in the panel to a single box, with no other outlets or lights along the way.
For a 20 amp circuit that is 12 gauge copper cable, a 20 amp breaker of the type the location calls for, a box, a 20 amp receptacle with the T-shaped neutral slot, and a cover plate. In a kitchen, laundry, garage, basement or bathroom the circuit needs GFCI protection. In most living spaces it needs arc-fault protection. Often both come from one combination breaker at the panel, which costs noticeably more than a standard breaker and is the main reason the parts bill varies.
The hours go into three places: getting the cable from the panel to the room, getting it into the wall where the box goes, and making up the panel end. The panel end is predictable. The route is not, and that is why two quotes for the same circuit can differ by a factor of two.
Most jurisdictions require a permit for a new circuit. Ask whether the fee is in the quote; it varies too much by city to state here.
What moves the hours
Distance and route. A cable can rarely go in a straight line. It follows joists, goes up through a top plate into the attic or down through a bottom plate into the basement, and comes back out where it is needed. Each change of level is a hole to drill and a fish to make.
What is open and what is finished. An unfinished basement or attic is where an electrician makes up time. A finished basement ceiling, a slab floor with no crawl space, or a two-story run with a finished room in between can triple the hours. In some houses the only honest route means opening a wall, which is billed as $300 to $1,500 per opening on top of the electrical work.
Exterior walls. Insulated exterior walls are slow to fish through, and fire blocking inside them stops a fish tape halfway.
Panel space. A spare slot makes the panel end a 20 minute job. A full panel means rearranging circuits, using tandem breakers if the panel is listed for them, or adding a subpanel. If the panel is full because the service is at its limit, no amount of rearranging solves it, and the conversation becomes a service upgrade at $1,500 to $6,000.
Plaster and old wiring. Lath and plaster cracks when it is drilled and does not patch invisibly. Old cloth-insulated wiring in the way slows everything down.
A worked example: a dedicated 20 amp circuit for a kitchen
A new over-the-range microwave whose manual calls for a dedicated 20 amp circuit. The panel has a spare slot. Two versions of the same house are priced: one with an unfinished basement under the kitchen, and one where the basement is finished and the cable has to come up through an interior wall.
Unfinished basement below, short run:
- Call-out fee: $100 to $250
- Labor: 2 to 3 hours × $80 to $180 per hour = $160 to $540
- Total: $260 to $790
Finished basement, cable fished through a closed interior wall:
- Call-out fee: $100 to $250
- Labor: 4 to 6 hours × $80 to $180 per hour = $320 to $1,080
- Total: $420 to $1,330
The breaker, cable and receptacle are on top of both, quoted at cost or with a modest markup. The circuit is the same in both houses; the difference of $160 to $540 against $320 to $1,080 in labor is entirely the route. If the electrician has to open the wall rather than fish it, add the patching.
Many firms quote a fixed price for this kind of job from a price book instead of hours. That is fine. Ask what route the fixed price assumes, because a fixed price built for the easy house is the one that gets revised on the day.
How to keep the hours down
Batch circuits. The visit, the permit and the panel work are shared. Two circuits on one trip cost far less than two trips, and three run through the same open basement ceiling less again.
Plan around a remodel. When walls are open for any other reason, a new circuit takes a fraction of the time. If a kitchen or laundry project is coming, put the circuits in the drawings rather than adding them after the drywall.
Clear the route. Empty the closets the cable passes through, move furniture away from the walls, and clear the attic hatch. Time spent moving boxes is billed at the same rate as time spent wiring.
Ask about the panel first. Send a photo of the open panel door with the quote request. An electrician who can see spare slots, or the lack of them, can quote accurately before arriving.
Frequently asked questions
Does a refrigerator need a dedicated circuit?
The code does not require one in most cases, and many kitchen refrigerators share a small-appliance circuit. A dedicated circuit is still good practice, because it means a tripped countertop outlet or a GFCI fault elsewhere cannot quietly switch off the fridge while you are away.
Can I put two appliances on one 20 amp circuit?
Sometimes. If neither appliance's instructions require a dedicated circuit and their combined draw stays well below the circuit rating, sharing is allowed. A microwave and a toaster oven on the same circuit is a classic source of nuisance trips.
How do I know if a circuit is already dedicated?
Switch off the breaker and check which outlets and lights go dead. If only the one outlet or appliance loses power, the circuit is dedicated. If half the kitchen does, it is not.
Is a dedicated circuit the same as a 240 volt circuit?
No. A dedicated circuit is any circuit that serves one load, and most are 120 volt, 15 or 20 amp. A 240 volt circuit for a dryer, range or car charger is also dedicated, but it uses heavier cable and a double-pole breaker, and it is a larger job.
Related guides
- Electrical outlet installation cost — adding to a circuit that already exists
- Electrical panel upgrade cost — when the panel has no capacity left for new circuits
- Appliance installation cost — what the delivery crew will and will not connect
- Electrician cost — the hourly rate behind every line here
What this costs in your state
Priced from the mean hourly wage for electricians in each state against the national mean, BLS OEWS May 2025. Only the labor part of the figure moves: about 75% of this job is labor, so a state paying 20% above the national mean lands about 15% above the national price rather than 20%. Materials cost much the same everywhere.
| State | Typical | Range | Wage index |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oregon | $143 | $104 to $233 | 1.40× |
| Washington | $137 | $99 to $223 | 1.32× |
| Hawaii | $135 | $98 to $220 | 1.30× |
| Illinois | $134 | $97 to $219 | 1.29× |
| Alaska | $131 | $96 to $215 | 1.26× |
Show the other 40 states and the District of Columbia
| State | Typical | Range | Wage index |
|---|---|---|---|
| District of Columbia | $130 | $95 to $213 | 1.24× |
| New Jersey | $128 | $93 to $209 | 1.21× |
| California | $127 | $92 to $207 | 1.20× |
| New York | $125 | $91 to $205 | 1.19× |
| Massachusetts | $122 | $88 to $199 | 1.14× |
| Minnesota | $121 | $88 to $198 | 1.13× |
| Connecticut | $117 | $85 to $191 | 1.08× |
| Maine | $117 | $85 to $191 | 1.08× |
| Pennsylvania | $115 | $84 to $188 | 1.06× |
| Nevada | $115 | $84 to $188 | 1.06× |
| Maryland | $115 | $83 to $188 | 1.06× |
| Wyoming | $114 | $83 to $186 | 1.05× |
| Rhode Island | $113 | $82 to $185 | 1.04× |
| Michigan | $113 | $82 to $184 | 1.03× |
| Wisconsin | $113 | $82 to $184 | 1.03× |
| Vermont | $112 | $82 to $184 | 1.03× |
| Missouri | $111 | $81 to $182 | 1.01× |
| Montana | $111 | $80 to $181 | 1.01× |
| Indiana | $109 | $79 to $179 | 0.99× |
| Delaware | $109 | $79 to $179 | 0.99× |
| North Dakota | $109 | $79 to $178 | 0.98× |
| Kansas | $107 | $78 to $176 | 0.97× |
| Ohio | $107 | $78 to $175 | 0.96× |
| Virginia | $106 | $77 to $173 | 0.95× |
| West Virginia | $106 | $77 to $173 | 0.95× |
| Idaho | $104 | $76 to $171 | 0.93× |
| Colorado | $104 | $76 to $170 | 0.93× |
| New Hampshire | $103 | $75 to $169 | 0.92× |
| Utah | $103 | $75 to $168 | 0.91× |
| Arizona | $102 | $74 to $166 | 0.90× |
| Nebraska | $101 | $74 to $166 | 0.90× |
| Tennessee | $101 | $73 to $165 | 0.89× |
| Oklahoma | $101 | $73 to $165 | 0.89× |
| Iowa | $100 | $73 to $164 | 0.88× |
| Louisiana | $99 | $72 to $163 | 0.87× |
| South Dakota | $99 | $72 to $162 | 0.87× |
| Kentucky | $98 | $72 to $161 | 0.86× |
| Georgia | $98 | $71 to $160 | 0.85× |
| New Mexico | $96 | $70 to $158 | 0.83× |
| Texas | $96 | $70 to $157 | 0.83× |
| South Carolina | $96 | $70 to $156 | 0.83× |
Least expensive
| State | Typical | Range | Wage index |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mississippi | $94 | $69 to $155 | 0.81× |
| Florida | $94 | $68 to $154 | 0.81× |
| Alabama | $94 | $68 to $154 | 0.80× |
| North Carolina | $93 | $68 to $152 | 0.80× |
| Arkansas | $89 | $65 to $146 | 0.75× |
All 50 states and the District of Columbia. BLS suppresses an estimate where the sample is too small to publish, and those are left out rather than filled in with the national figure.
Producer price index for copper wire and cable
This is a materials cost trend, not a project price. It is what producers charge for the material, indexed to a base year — useful for seeing which way the material behind this job has moved, and not a figure to multiply anything by.
Sources and methodology
- Labor
- Electricians
- Materials
- Copper wire and cable
- Split
- About 75% of this figure is labor and 25% materials, which is what decides whether it moves with wages or with the commodity index. How we calculate costs.
Read next
Electrical outlet installation cost$140 to $350eachAdding an outlet costs $140 to $350, most often $230. Nearly all of that is the visit: the device costs $5 and the work takes half an hour, so do them in batches.
Electrical panel upgrade cost$1,500 to $6,000per projectUpgrading from 100 to 200 amps costs $1,500 to $6,000, typically $2,800. Replacing a panel at the same amperage is cheaper, and knowing which job you need is most of the decision.
Federal Pacific panel replacement cost$1,300 to $4,000per projectReplacing a Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel costs $1,300 to $4,000, typically $2,200, at the same amperage. What the swap uncovers, and whether to upgrade the service while the power is off, sets the final price.
240V outlet installation cost$80 to $180per hourA 240 volt outlet is a new circuit billed at $80 to $180 an hour. A dryer outlet near the panel totals about $260 to $970 with the visit; a 50 amp outlet on a long run costs more because the wire is heavier.
Electrician cost$80 to $180per hourAn electrician charges $80 to $180 an hour, most commonly $110, plus a call-out fee of $100 to $250. Small jobs feel expensive because most of the bill is the visit rather than the work.