Deck staining cost

Staining a deck costs $1.50 to $4.00 a square foot, putting a 300 square foot deck at $450 to $1,200. The cost is not the stain; it is the preparation, and skipping it is why finishes fail in a year.

Decking boards in sunlight

National average

$3

per sq ft

National estimate as of September 2026, not a quote. Where these figures come from.

Staining a deck costs $1.50 to $4.00 a square foot, typically around $2.50, which puts a 300 square foot deck at $450 to $1,200. Doing it yourself is $80 to $250 in materials and a weekend.

The cost is not the stain. It is the preparation, and skipping it is why most deck finishes fail in a year instead of three.

What it costs

JobTypical cost
Cleaning only$0.50 to $1.50 per sq ft
Clean, sand and stain$2.00 to $4.50 per sq ft
Stain only, previously prepared$1.00 to $2.50 per sq ft
Stripping an old failing finish$1.00 to $3.00 per sq ft
Brightening after stripping$0.30 to $0.80 per sq ft
Railing and stairs, per linear foot$3 to $10
300 sq ft deck, professional$450 to $1,200
500 sq ft deck, professional$750 to $2,000
DIY materials, 300 sq ft$80 to $250
Replacing failed boards first$8 to $30 each
Popping and resetting nails or screws$100 to $400

How long each finish lasts

FinishLifeWhat it looks like
Clear sealer1 to 2 yearsWood colour, no pigment, no UV protection
Toner1 to 3 yearsA hint of colour, grain fully visible
Semi-transparent stain2 to 4 yearsColour, grain visible
Semi-solid stain3 to 5 yearsMore colour, grain faintly visible
Solid stain4 to 7 yearsOpaque, grain texture only
Paint5 to 8 yearsOpaque, peels rather than fades

Pigment is what blocks UV, so the more opaque the finish the longer it lasts. The trade is that opaque finishes fail by peeling, which requires stripping, while transparent finishes fail by fading, which requires only cleaning and recoating.

For a deck you want to keep easy, semi-transparent is the sweet spot: three years, and you never have to strip it.

A deck being washed
Low pressure, a fan tip, held back, always with the grain. High pressure fuzzes the wood fibres and the stain then soaks in unevenly and fails early.

The preparation is the job

Clean. A deck cleaner with sodium percarbonate lifts the grey oxidised surface and the mildew. Pressure washing at low pressure, under 1,500 psi, with a fan tip, held back from the surface, and always with the grain. High pressure fuzzes the wood fibres and the stain then soaks in unevenly and fails early.

Brighten. An oxalic acid brightener after cleaning neutralises the cleaner and restores the colour. Skipping it leaves the wood alkaline and some stains will not bond.

Sand, sometimes. If the wood has fuzzed from previous pressure washing, or the old finish is patchy, an 80 grit sanding evens it. Not always necessary; always helps.

Dry. Twenty-four to forty-eight hours after washing, and no rain forecast for another twenty-four after staining. Staining damp wood is the second most common cause of failure after skipping the clean.

Test the absorption. Sprinkle water on the boards. If it beads, the wood will not take stain and needs more cleaning or stripping. If it soaks in within seconds, it is ready.

New wood has to wait

Fresh pressure-treated lumber is wet with preservative and will not absorb stain. The usual advice is to wait, and how long depends on the wood and the climate: often three to six months, sometimes a full season.

Use the water test rather than the calendar. When water soaks in rather than beading, the deck is ready.

Kiln-dried-after-treatment lumber, sold as KDAT, can often be finished immediately, and it costs more.

Frequently asked questions

Can I do it myself?

Yes, and it is one of the better value DIY jobs: $80 to $250 in materials against $450 to $1,200. Budget a full weekend, one day for cleaning and drying and one for staining, and do not start if rain is forecast within 48 hours.

Stain or paint?

Stain on a deck floor, essentially always. Paint on a horizontal surface that gets sun, rain and foot traffic peels, and stripping peeling paint off decking is miserable work. Paint is fine on railings and risers.

How often does it need doing?

Every two to four years for semi-transparent on a deck in full sun, and longer on a shaded or covered deck. Recoat when water stops beading, not on a schedule.

Do I have to strip the old finish?

Only if it is peeling or if you are moving from a solid stain to something more transparent. A faded semi-transparent stain can be cleaned and recoated directly, which is the reason to choose it in the first place.

Should I use an oil or a water-based stain?

Oil penetrates better and is easier to recoat; water-based holds colour longer and is easier to clean up. Both are good now. What matters far more is the pigment level and the preparation.