Air conditioner repair cost

Most air conditioner repairs cost $150 to $650. The expensive ones, a compressor or an evaporator coil, are the point at which you stop repairing and start pricing a replacement.

A technician working on an outdoor air conditioning unit

National average

$450

per project

National estimate as of September 2026, not a quote. Where these figures come from.

Most air conditioner repairs cost $150 to $650. The common failures are cheap parts that fail predictably: a capacitor, a contactor, a clogged drain line. The expensive ones, a compressor or an evaporator coil, are the point at which you stop repairing and start pricing a replacement.

Like every trade that comes to your house, there is a minimum. A diagnostic visit is $75 to $200 and most contractors credit it against the repair if you go ahead. In peak summer, expect the high end and expect a wait.

What the common repairs cost

RepairTypical cost
Diagnostic visit$75 to $200
Run capacitor$150 to $350
Contactor$150 to $400
Condensate drain clearing$100 to $250
Condensate pump$200 to $500
Blower motor$400 to $1,100
Fan motor, outdoor$350 to $800
Control board$400 to $900
Thermostat$150 to $500
Refrigerant leak search and repair$400 to $1,600
Refrigerant recharge, R-410A$250 to $750
Refrigerant recharge, R-22$600 to $2,000
Evaporator coil$900 to $2,800
Compressor$1,500 to $3,500

Emergency, evening and weekend rates typically add 50% to 100%.

Refrigerant is where the money disappears

An air conditioner does not consume refrigerant. It is a sealed loop. If it is low, there is a leak, and adding refrigerant without finding the leak is buying the same gas twice.

This matters enormously if your system is old enough to use R-22, which was phased out of production and is now expensive. A recharge that costs $250 on a modern R-410A system can cost $2,000 on an R-22 one. If a contractor tells you an R-22 system needs refrigerant, treat it as a replacement conversation rather than a repair one.

Ask which refrigerant your system uses before agreeing to anything. It is printed on the nameplate of the outdoor unit.

Repair or replace

The rough test: divide the repair cost by the years you realistically expect from the system afterwards, and compare that to a replacement divided by fifteen.

A $6,800 replacement over fifteen years is about $450 a year. So a $400 repair that buys three more years, at $133 a year, is clearly worth doing. A $2,400 compressor on a 15 year old system that might give you three more years is $800 a year, which is worse than simply replacing it.

Replace rather than repair when any of these is true:

  • The system uses R-22 and has a leak
  • The compressor has failed and the warranty has expired
  • The system is past 15 years and the repair is over about $1,500
  • You have had two significant repairs in two seasons
  • The evaporator coil has failed out of warranty

Repair when the system is under twelve years old, the failed part is an electrical component rather than the sealed system, and it has otherwise been reliable.

Electrical components inside an opened unit
A run capacitor is a $150 to $350 part and one of the most common failures. A compressor is ten times that and usually ends the conversation.

What you can check before calling

Some of the most common call-outs are things you can rule out in ten minutes.

The filter. A blocked filter is the single most common cause of poor cooling and of a frozen coil. Check it first.

The breaker. Air conditioners have two: one in the panel, one in the disconnect box beside the outdoor unit.

The thermostat. Batteries, and that it is set to cool rather than fan.

The outdoor unit. Clear leaves and debris from the coil, and make sure nothing is growing within two feet of it.

The drain. If the system has shut itself off and there is water near the indoor unit, the condensate line is probably blocked and a float switch has done its job.

Ice on the lines. Turn the system off, set the fan to on, and let it thaw for a few hours before anyone looks at it. Running a frozen system damages the compressor, and a technician cannot diagnose an iced coil anyway.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my AC running but not cooling?

Most often a dirty filter or a frozen evaporator coil, both of which restrict airflow. After that, low refrigerant from a leak, or a failed capacitor that lets the fan run while the compressor does not.

Is a home warranty worth it for HVAC?

Read what it excludes. Many policies cap payouts well below the cost of a compressor or coil, exclude systems above a certain age, and require you to use their contractor. They can be worthwhile on older equipment; they are frequently disappointing at exactly the moment you need them.

How often should I have it serviced?

Once a year before cooling season, and again in autumn if the same equipment heats. A service should include cleaning the condenser coil, checking refrigerant pressures, testing the capacitor and clearing the condensate line. It is worth doing: most of the expensive failures announce themselves first.

The technician says I need a whole new system. How do I know if that is true?

Ask which specific part failed, what it costs to replace, and what the remaining warranty is. Get the model number and the age of the equipment. Then get a second opinion from a contractor who is not selling you the replacement, particularly if the first visit was free.

Can I add refrigerant myself?

Legally, no, for anything but the smallest self-contained appliances. Handling refrigerant requires EPA Section 608 certification. Practically, adding refrigerant without finding the leak wastes the money anyway.